# Sensitive jaw method?



## LucyEmilie (Oct 21, 2011)

I'm looking to finally make my fursona suit in a few months, but I'd really like the jaw to be sensitive and easily moveable. Does any one know of any good tutorials? I know the one which has a separate jaw from the mask (using elastic over the head) which is apparently quite good, and you can apparently also sew some of the fur from that to the actual mask to sort of make it a one piece mask. (I would prefer the mask to be one piece if possible, but that method is what I'm looking at currently.)
I don't want it to be too small inside the mask as I need to wear glasses (and the frames are quite big) so the mask needs to be a bit roomy inside, and light (I want to try not to use much plastic mesh, or wire)
I don't know if I'm talking too much. I'd just like a few suggestions or ideas before I start. :3

I have made two fursuit masks before but the jaws weren't moveable. (Honestly one wasn't supposed to be, but if I push the inside of the jaw to my chin it actually moves but isnt very sensitive. >o< ) Some photos are on my DA but probably aren't relevant to this question, but here you go anyway. http://crazy-maizy.deviantart.com/


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## morphology (Oct 21, 2011)

First of all, awesome American McGee costumes! 

Jaw hinges are not that sensitive in general because you don't want them to suddenly swing open at weird times.  I think you could improve the articulation by adhering the mask jaw to your jaw with some spirit gum (found in special effects and theater makeup places).  My jaw hinges are held closed with elastic, but I've seen some really talented fursuit makers use small springs, which I assume would make them more sensitive.

For lightness, I'd highly recommend casting the base of the mask out of resin.  There are plenty of resin casting tutorials out there on the internet. (check out Qarrezel on Deviantart)

Does that help?


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## LucyEmilie (Oct 21, 2011)

It does a bit, thanks. But I havent really cast resin before, so its probably not an option and I'm guessing it's more expensive, and I'd like to improve on foam masks, the elastic jaw/hinged method I've seen used a few times so I'll look into that.  (But I don't quite know how the elastic is attached to the foam if the base is only made of foam, I have seen a few masks like this.)


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## Deo (Oct 21, 2011)

If the jaw is fitted correctly to your chin it won't just flop or hang open. 

So you'll want a hinge just below your ear that connects the top and lower jaw, and you want something stiff in the lower jaw (like a resin or layers of mesh under the foamwork). The stiff material acts as the bone and disperese the movement so you aren't just pulling and flopping about with foam.

To get the most movement it's all about the hinge location, the stiffness of the masks' underlying structure, and how you fur it. The fur needs room to open the jaw, incorrectly furring it will keep the jaw shut or with only limited movement.

Pictures of good moving jaw understructures:












If you're still worried about getting a "snapping" shut motion with your jaw small springs can be added like this:


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## LucyEmilie (Oct 22, 2011)

I see how it's done now.
I will definitely keep that in mind for future masks...it would be very useful, but I think I have to still keep things simple since it IS going to be my 3rd mask, and first mask with a dog muzzle. (Its more toony style too rather than a realistic wolf muzzle)
I'm sure I will work something out, I might make a base of plastic mesh first so it doesnt bend around. (I'm still thinking separate jaw method though)
Thanks for the tips though :3


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