# Hard disc decision help



## Takun (Jan 14, 2009)

What line of hard disc should I look into?

Would things such as SATA and ATA. would it make a diffefence if i Switched from one to the other, and what other information should i know about choosing 
what other information should i know about choosing and replacing a harddrive for a laptop.


~Asking this for Adelio


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## pheonix (Jan 15, 2009)

Personally idk but it's the internet so I'll look to see what I can find for yo er...Adelio.


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## Koda (Jan 15, 2009)

SATA is always going to be the best choice for consumers (for the moment) it is cheap, faster than PATA (the flat IDE ribon cables), and is just overall better in my oppinion. PATA, or Parallel ATA is based on oooold technology, SATA is based on newer, faster 'serial' technolgy similar to what USB uses. Even there, USB vs Parallel Port.. which was better? USB = Smaller Cables, faster transmission rates, newer features (like P&P!!)

Switching between SATA and PATA is not a big deal, but if you want to make the switch you have to consider if your motherboard can support it first. If you buy a SATA hard drive, but your computer is old (or just crappy) it's probably not going to have a SATA connector (header) on the board, so you'd be basically stuck with a paper weight.

I actually just finished building a new server computer (for backing up all my files on my other computers) and I used 3 SATA drives in RAID 5 configuration. 3 of http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822145215) Can't go wrong with the price tag and storage space on that puppy! They run exquisitely cool (with the aid of a constant fan of course) and are more energy efficient than other drives.

Laptop hard drives on the other hand, well, you are kind of locked into one type. SATA and PATA are *not* interchangeable in the broadest sense. If your laptop uses a SATA drive, you have to replace it with a SATA drive. Similarly with PATA. I don't know of any laptop which offers both types of connector.

Laptop hard drives are also FAR more fragile than their larger desktop counterparts. You can actually shatter the drive platters in laptop hard drives by dropping them. They are made with a more glass-like material instead of heavier, metallic ones desktops traditionally use. So be very careful not to drop one / work low to the ground if you're clumsy. A short jolt probably wont kill a drive, but a long hard fall probably will.


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## pheonix (Jan 15, 2009)

Koda said:


> SATA is always going to be the best choice for consumers (for the moment) it is cheap, faster than PATA (the flat IDE ribon cables), and is just overall better in my oppinion. PATA, or Parallel ATA is based on oooold technology, SATA is based on newer, faster 'serial' technolgy similar to what USB uses. Even there, USB vs Parallel Port.. which was better? USB = Smaller Cables, faster transmission rates, newer features (like P&P!!)
> 
> Switching between SATA and PATA is not a big deal, but if you want to make the switch you have to consider if your motherboard can support it first. If you buy a SATA hard drive, but your computer is old (or just crappy) it's probably not going to have a SATA connector (header) on the board, so you'd be basically stuck with a paper weight.
> 
> ...



Damn just read up on it but was beat to the punch. lol


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## Adelio Altomar (Jan 15, 2009)

So SATA is the only one available to laptops?
And I'm not looking for a server hard disc or anything. The one on my laptop is deteriorating and fast on my laptop; it corrupted the not just the Windows Vista operating system, but the entire partition as well! TWICE!! 

And I would've made this thread, but the only three options I have vary from sometimes to completely unreliable for web browsing: iTouch, mobile phone and Linux Fedora 10.


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## ToeClaws (Jan 15, 2009)

Koda covered all the bases for drive types - nice post.   Laptops are both PATA and SATA.  Most (if not all) laptops made today are SATA.  In fact, if your laptop is 2 years old or less, then it's a pretty good chance it's a SATA drive inside - they started making the shift around 3.5 years ago.

What I would suggest is to look up the model of your laptop and see if the technical specifications indicate the drive type.  If you can't find that, then the next best thing is to take the drive out and visually try to determine it.  Most laptops nowadays have a small bay or hatch that allow you to get at the drive on the bottom or sometimes side of the system.  Most PATA drives use adapters to fit them to the system, removed, the naked drive pins look like this:







SATA laptop drives on the other hand look like this:






Couldn't find quite as close-up a pic, but notice how instead of pins it has two plastic-backed contact zones.  

Once you know what drive you have, then you also need to find out what size your laptop can support as a max.  Again, the technical specs should be able to help you with this, or you can also try to ask the manufacturers support line.  Most fairly new laptops can support pretty big drives, but it does pay to check because there are sometimes limitations.  Once you know this, you can order the drive. 

One nice thing about SATA laptop drives is that many are available in 7200 rpm speeds - if you're willing to spend a little extra to get them, they perform about 33% faster than the normal 5400rpm drives.  Makes a notebook perform a lot more like a desktop system.


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## lilEmber (Jan 15, 2009)

SATA It's just, better, and it's easier on the fingers when installing. :3


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## Pi (Jan 15, 2009)

NewfDraggie said:


> SATA It's just, better, and it's easier on the fingers when installing. :3



a SATA drive is sure gonna be easier on the fingers if he doesn't have a laptop with SATA


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## Runefox (Jan 15, 2009)

Pi said:


> a SATA drive is sure gonna be easier on the fingers if he doesn't have a laptop with SATA



Could always just run it external using a SATA-USB dongle. =D

...

Hehe. Dongle.


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## LizardKing (Jan 15, 2009)

Get a raptor because they're awesome and they sound sexy :3


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## Runefox (Jan 15, 2009)

LizardKing said:


> Get a raptor because they're awesome and they sound sexy :3








While Velociraptors are indeed 2.5in, they're a bit thicker, and without the massive heatsink, I'd be afraid of them. Also, their SATA connectors are placed slightly differently than standard 2.5in hard drives to stop people from doing precisely that.


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## lilEmber (Jan 15, 2009)

Pi said:


> a SATA drive is sure gonna be easier on the fingers if he doesn't have a laptop with SATA



OMG you're right, for once.


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## ToeClaws (Jan 15, 2009)

Yeah, Raptors are slick, though again, only if it's not for a laptop.

If you want to go the performance route (and had more money than you knew what to do with) you could also go SCSI/SAS.  I used to run a 10,000rpm SCSI for years as my game drive (before they made 15,000rpm ones), and even today, my 1T drive is not, overall, as good a performer than the old 36g SCSI.  SCSI's have wickedly fast seek times and the transfer rates of the 15K rpm drives are insane.  But ah... very very expensive route to take (hence why I didn't do it this time around).


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## Pi (Jan 15, 2009)

Runefox said:


> Could always just run it external using a SATA-USB dongle. =D





			
				the OP said:
			
		

> choosing and *replacing* a harddrive for a laptop.





			
				NewfDraggie said:
			
		

> OMG you're right, for once.



And you're wrong, like usual!


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## WarMocK (Jan 15, 2009)

ToeClaws said:


> Yeah, Raptors are slick, though again, only if it's not for a laptop.
> 
> If you want to go the performance route (and had more money than you knew what to do with) you could also go SCSI/SAS.  I used to run a 10,000rpm SCSI for years as my game drive (before they made 15,000rpm ones), and even today, my 1T drive is not, overall, as good a performer than the old 36g SCSI.  SCSI's have wickedly fast seek times and the transfer rates of the 15K rpm drives are insane.  But ah... very very expensive route to take (hence why I didn't do it this time around).



Not to mention the noise and the enormous heat they generate.


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## ToeClaws (Jan 15, 2009)

WarMocK said:


> Not to mention the noise and the enormous heat they generate.



lol, yes.  I had a system at one time (acted as a UT2004 server) that had three SCSIs.  Thing sounded like some sort of Jet turbine.


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## WarMocK (Jan 15, 2009)

ToeClaws said:


> lol, yes.  I had a system at one time (acted as a UT2004 server) that had three SCSIs.  Thing sounded like some sort of Jet turbine.



LOL? Me 2, and I still have it (but it's offline atm after I got the new components for my new UT server). ^^

4 SCSI drives Ã  36 GB. Man, the ears the ears ... xD


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## ToeClaws (Jan 15, 2009)

WarMocK said:


> LOL? Me 2, and I still have it (but it's offline atm after I got the new components for my new UT server). ^^
> 
> 4 SCSI drives Ã  36 GB. Man, the ears the ears ... xD



Sweet!  I have a couple 10K rpm 72g SCSI's waiting to make up a new one, as well as a 32M buffered RAID card that will control them... only problem is I need to find another 68 pin to 80 pin SAS adaptor to fit them, doh.


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## Runefox (Jan 15, 2009)

Aaaanyway, more to the point of the topic, a Western Digital, Seagate or Samsung hard drive will do very well and all have good warranties. Hitachi isn't bad, either, surprisingly (and that's the brand that Apple uses (or at least for a time used) for their Macbooks, if you care). I'm not too sure about Fujitsu or Toshiba, though. And if you end up finding a Maxtor somewhere, I recommend running far, far away, screaming at the top of your lungs. I liken them to dirty bombs, even if they ARE owned by Seagate now =D


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## Pi (Jan 16, 2009)

Runefox said:


> Aaaanyway, more to the point of the topic, a Western Digital, Seagate or Samsung hard drive will do very well and all have good warranties. Hitachi isn't bad, either, surprisingly (and that's the brand that Apple uses (or at least for a time used) for their Macbooks, if you care). I'm not too sure about Fujitsu or Toshiba, though. And if you end up finding a Maxtor somewhere, I recommend running far, far away, screaming at the top of your lungs. I liken them to dirty bombs, even if they ARE owned by Seagate now =D



To the OP: Keep in mind that you'll hear this exact story where the only thing that is different is the permutation of the manufacturer's names.


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## Runefox (Jan 16, 2009)

Honestly? No, I don't think so. A lot of people don't like Western Digital, and I've met one or two who don't like Seagate, but I haven't met a single person who would knowingly use a Maxtor hard drive for anything important.


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## jagdwolf (Jan 16, 2009)

I have used mainly western digital because their warrenty is just excellent.  they are a tad higher priced.

But as to ATA or SATA, first, will your mother board support a SATA drive and if not do you have an exansion slot to put a sata card in?

Also what are you using this HD for?  if its just for storage, and not for gaming or video editing, then a Raptor is over kill.  A good 3g. sata will do quite well.

If its for gaming or video editing, go for the speed.  But WD is the brand for me.  Personal choice, but have been using them for almost 17 years.


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## Adelio Altomar (Jan 16, 2009)

Okay, let me tell you this so I can stop this flow of over blown ideas. I want only functionality, simplocity, and affordability not a powerhouse junk part that'll make my lawn-mower-motor comp louder. I'm on a budget and I don't need power. I'm not gaming. Just typing up stories and browsing the web every now and then,  when I'm not watching reading stories and listening to music. So no Raptors. 

So someone mentioned about the size of what I should buy depending on the what the computer's limit is. How do I know what that limit is and how do I find out? And I'm assuming you're talking about the space it can hold.

Also, thanks for the help all of you so far. Including Takumi. =3


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## jagdwolf (Jan 16, 2009)

Adelio Altomar said:


> Okay, let me tell you this so I can stop this flow of over blown ideas. I want only functionality, simplocity, and affordability not a powerhouse junk part that'll make my lawn-mower-motor comp louder. I'm on a budget and I don't need power. I'm not gaming. Just typing up stories and browsing the web every now and then, when I'm not watching reading stories and listening to music. So no Raptors.
> 
> So someone mentioned about the size of what I should buy depending on the what the computer's limit is. How do I know what that limit is and how do I find out? And I'm assuming you're talking about the space it can hold.
> 
> Also, thanks for the help all of you so far. Including Takumi. =3


 

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...0150380 50001306 1035915133&name=SATA 3.0Gb/s


From what you said it should be easy to get what you want.  I pasted a newegg link.  you can start over and drill down by what ever you want.  I would suggest looking at your lap top manuals and shopping the manufactures web sight or call them for what it will and will not take.  then I would put the largest GB size you can squeeze in.


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## ToeClaws (Jan 16, 2009)

Adelio Altomar said:


> So someone mentioned about the size of what I should buy depending on the what the computer's limit is. How do I know what that limit is and how do I find out? And I'm assuming you're talking about the space it can hold.



You need to look up technical specifications on the system or BIOS.  If it's a laptop, then look up the model and see if you can find the companies detailed tech-specs on it.  They're usually available as a PDF download from the company's support pages.  If the specs don't indicate the maximum hardware size, you can then look in the release notes of the different BIOS updates (called ROMPAQs with older Compaq laptops).  These will sometimes mention the size limits.  Failing that, you can also write or call support for that company and simply ask.  You may have to ask a couple times before they tell you because some support are trained to first suggest buying a new laptop instead.

If it's a PC, then it comes down to your motherboard's BIOS.  Look up your motherboard model and BIOS revision.  Desktop PCs are typically much better at seeing bigger drives, and the SATA controllers usually see just about anything you hook up.  Most manufacturers provide utilities and instructions on how to update the BIOS if need be. 

Oh, one other thing, if it's a PC that you're putting them in, another wee detail you need to check on that's rather important is whether you _have_ SATA or not.  Most PC motherboards made in the last 4 years do, but some cheaper ones didn't/don't, so you'll definitely want to confirm it's presence!


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## lilEmber (Jan 16, 2009)

Pi said:


> And you're wrong, like usual!



So, you're not right? Whatever.


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## net-cat (Jan 16, 2009)

Before you buy _anything_, you need to pull the drive out and find out what kind it is.

See [post=811958]ToeClaws' post[/post] on the subject.

If it's SATA, then there's a good chance (99.9% or so) you can use any size available.

See [post=813571]jagdwolf's post[/post], in this case.

If it's ATA, your best bet is to get a drive that's the same size. You can probably go bigger if it's a newer laptop (~5 years so so,) though.

On the specific brand, it matters little. (My personal preference is Western Digital or Seagate and avoid Maxtor.) In most cases you'll want to buy the bare OEM drive over the retail package. It doesn't include any manuals or cables or anything like that, but you won't need them if it's a replacement drive. And as counter-intuitive and bass-ackward as it seems, the OEM drives usually have better warranties. It's usually cheaper, too.


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## Runefox (Jan 16, 2009)

Ah, size limitations. OK.

Typically, size limitations are 504MB, 7.8GB (both unheard of now), 32GB (older), 137GB, and now with newer IDE (if your original drive was above 137GB) and SATA, 2.2GB (OS limitations) and 144 petabytes.

So if your current hard drive capacity falls between two of these, then take the largest as the maximum.


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## ToeClaws (Jan 16, 2009)

Runefox said:


> Ah, size limitations. OK.
> 
> Typically, size limitations are 504MB, 7.8GB (both unheard of now), 32GB (older), 137GB, and now with newer IDE (if your original drive was above 137GB) and SATA, 2.2GB (OS limitations) and 144 petabytes.
> 
> So if your current hard drive capacity falls between two of these, then take the largest as the maximum.



*chuckles* Wow, yes, those were all the different limits of the last 15 years or so.  To clarify, these limits are for IDE/PATA drives.


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