# Hand paws and stuff



## Kitutal (Jan 31, 2012)

I've decided to give this a go at last, and at least start with a nce set of paws (could do with some warm gloves this winter anyway) however, I am still unsure how to go about doing so, there seem to be so many different ways and pieces of advice. So, does anyone feel like sparing a few minutes to help me understand the pros and cons of different methods. So far as I can tell, I can 
get some gloves and cover them in fur, resulting in something that still looks mostly human (though I rather dislike the feel of rubber gloves, wondering what else I could use instead)
cut out some thick fabric to make my own gloves, complicated by getting the fingers wide enough to wrap all the way around
or, wraps some gloves in foam first, making them bigger and rounder but harder to use for anything hand-related

Any advice on my first attempt? Anything more I've missed out there?


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## Inashne117 (Jan 31, 2012)

I just used two pieces of fur and sewed them together. I found some fake fur with a really nice soft backing that feels pretty good against skin and isn't scratchy or rough.


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## Kitutal (Jan 31, 2012)

Now that makes even more sense. Where did you find it?


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## Inashne117 (Feb 1, 2012)

I actually found it at a local fabric store (not Joann's or Hancock's.)

I didn't realize how good the backing is until I got the fur I ordered from DistinctiveFabrics.


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## Kitutal (Feb 1, 2012)

How's this for an idea, then, a pillow case? nice enough material to have against your skin for a long time, easy to get, and one might have enough to make a couple of pairs different shapes, so I can see which I like best once the fur and everything are on.


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## Keeroh (Feb 1, 2012)

Kitutal said:


> How's this for an idea, then, a pillow case? nice enough material to have against your skin for a long time, easy to get, and one might have enough to make a couple of pairs different shapes, so I can see which I like best once the fur and everything are on.


I would be concerned about a pillowcase fabric being very inflexible, which can be problematic for gloves. However if you're on a budget, cheap sources of linen like old bedding should work just fine. I'd be cautious and make sure you leave a little "wiggle room" in the length of the fingers and perhaps some give at the first knuckle to compensate for a fabric that doesn't stretch.


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## Kitutal (Feb 2, 2012)

Can't think where else to ask this, so I'll just stick it in here. I'm wondering about the pile length of different furs, and which would be best. I can look at the given length, work out how far that is, but I have no idea how that would actually look on a person (or furson, if you prefer). I want something long and fluffy, but I don't want to end up with something too long.
For example, then, I saw this: http://www.donthugcacti.com/fursuit/index.php/Small-Cats/Tikka-Kitty anyone here able to judge about how long that would be?


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## Teal (Feb 2, 2012)

I'm gonna make some handpaws and was just going to wear some thin gloves underneith.


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## Calico-Feathers (Feb 2, 2012)

If you're still looking into handpaws here are some good tutorials:
http://www.furaffinity.net/view/7193876/
http://www.furaffinity.net/view/4743764/
I don't recommend making them on bought gloves since most tend to be stretchy and can be a pain to try and sew/glue/whatever onto. The backing of decent-quality furs really won't be bad at all. My hands have never been uncomfortable/scratched/rubbed and my handpaws just have the bare backing. You can always just sew a liner into them if you really want to, though.

Edit: Also what TealMoon ninja'd in. I've known suiters to wear gloves under their handpaws both for comfort and as a barrier between sweaty hands and the fur (so you're not touching/petting people with damp hands, ew).

On the topic of fur lengths. What you linked to I know the blue is the DistinctiveFabrics/Fabric.com/SyFabrics type shag. The pile on that is about 1.5"-2". It's also what I used on my suit: http://www.furaffinity.net/view/6457373/ However slightly shorter furs can have a very different look. http://www.furaffinity.net/view/6376977/ That guy is made out of the Teddy furs from Cr's Crafts, which is between 7/8" and 1 1/16" (http://www.crscraft.com/products/vP...ar+supplies&sub=Fabrics&class=&searchOffset=x). There's also fox fur found on the same site that is good for longer accents (3" pile) (http://www.crscraft.com/products/vP...ar+supplies&sub=Fabrics&class=&searchOffset=x) and looks like this when used: http://www.furaffinity.net/view/5933911 He has accents of the white and black on his neck, top and bottom of the tail, and hairfloof, though these pictures are a little harder to tell the difference in pile length.

What you always, always want to do if you're ordering a new fur, though, is get a swatch. It might behave differently depending on the manufacturer, how it's made, how it's stored, etc. For example the DF/Fabric.com/SyFabrics shag fur tends to get a spiky, fluffy, clumped sort of look if you don't brush or smooth it regularly. Cr's doesn't do this. It stays looking smooth, as do many of the furs from places like I'mStuffed.


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## Teal (Feb 2, 2012)

Calico-Feathers said:


> If you're still looking into handpaws here are some good tutorials:
> http://www.furaffinity.net/view/7193876/
> http://www.furaffinity.net/view/4743764/
> I don't recommend making them on bought gloves since most tend to be stretchy and can be a pain to try and sew/glue/whatever onto. The backing of decent-quality furs really won't be bad at all. My hands have never been uncomfortable/scratched/rubbed and my handpaws just have the bare backing. You can always just sew a liner into them if you really want to, though.
> ...


 That's really gross.


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## Calico-Feathers (Feb 2, 2012)

TealMoon said:


> That's really gross.



Trufax. Though for the most part it doesn't get that way especially since most peoples' hands don't sweat that badly. XD I've never had it get that bad nor have I ever experienced it. I think it's a just-in-case thing.


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## Kitutal (Feb 2, 2012)

OK, one last question before I leave you all in peace. What about paw pads, the only tutorial I have found recently with much information says simply non-fraying fabric, and i'm not too sure what that is, or where to buy it from. I can't seem to find it on the list of online shops given in the stickied threads. Anyone know where I should go, and what I should use?


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## Teal (Feb 2, 2012)

Calico-Feathers said:


> Trufax. Though for the most part it doesn't get that way especially since most peoples' hands don't sweat that badly. XD I've never had it get that bad nor have I ever experienced it. I think it's a just-in-case thing.


 My hands sweat a lot. -_-


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## Calico-Feathers (Feb 2, 2012)

Kitutal said:


> OK, one last question before I leave you all in peace. What about paw pads, the only tutorial I have found recently with much information says simply non-fraying fabric, and i'm not too sure what that is, or where to buy it from. I can't seem to find it on the list of online shops given in the stickied threads. Anyone know where I should go, and what I should use?



There are a few different materials you can use. If you want more toony pads you can get anti-pill fleece, felt, vinyl, or pleather/leather. Sewing them on takes a bit of practice, but can look really good. Or you can buy/make silicone pawpads (I always recommend silicone over latex since so many people have latex allergies). Monoyasha has a great stock of really nice looking pawpads for felines, as well as claws and stuff. :] http://www.monoyasha.com/fursuitpawpads.htm


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## Inashne117 (Feb 3, 2012)

I second leather pads. I used them and while they were a pain in the butt to sew through they look great against the fur I used.


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## Calico-Feathers (Feb 3, 2012)

Inashne117 said:


> I second leather pads. I used them and while they were a pain in the butt to sew through they look great against the fur I used.


They're also VERY durable, whereas fleece and felt aren't so much (though handpaws usually get worn out in general a lot faster than other parts of the suit).


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## Kitutal (Feb 3, 2012)

OK, leather it is then, looks quite nice.
And would I be right thinking I need to buy a whole big sheet of it just to cut a few little bits off?


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## Inashne117 (Feb 3, 2012)

The leather I bought was from Michael's and it came in an 8 1/2" x 11" sheet. I think I ended up using about a third of that but go for something around that size in case you mess up.


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## Kitutal (Feb 4, 2012)

That sounds better than the place I found, can I get one of those online?


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## Teal (Feb 4, 2012)

What kind of glue? I think I'll be using the leather method as well.


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## Inashne117 (Feb 4, 2012)

TealMoon said:


> What kind of glue? I think I'll be using the leather method as well.



I actually didn't use glue, I sewed them in place.


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## Kitutal (Feb 4, 2012)

That's my plan too. Though, if you do still want a glue that'll work on a flexible surface without cracking after it drys, your best bet would be something MEK based.


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## Teal (Feb 4, 2012)

What about E6000?


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## Calico-Feathers (Feb 4, 2012)

E600 should work, too. I don't have experience with it but I know it's flexible and washable after it cures so it's probably a good choice.


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## Teal (Feb 4, 2012)

I've never used it either, I just picked some up today because I heard it's good for gluing on claws.


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## Inashne117 (Feb 4, 2012)

E6000 is what I used to attach the claws to my gloves. It works great, two of my co-workers highly recommended it. It takes quite a while to fully dry however. 2-5minutes for adhesion, and 24-72 hours for full strength. In that situation, it would actually be faster to just sew them on and use a bit of fabric glue as a backup.


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## Teal (Feb 4, 2012)

Inashne117 said:


> E6000 is what I used to attach the claws to my gloves. It works great, two of my co-workers highly recommended it. It takes quite a while to fully dry however. 2-5minutes for adhesion, and 24-72 hours for full strength. In that situation, it would actually be faster to just sew them on and use a bit of fabric glue as a backup.


 I'd be able to wait. I've learned patience from making cosplay props. (They take fucking forever.)


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## Kitutal (Feb 8, 2012)

I'm still having difficulty with these leather paw pads mentioned above, i have found some places selling the material, but I have difficulty telling what it is like from the pictures they give, particularly how thick the sheets are, and as well I am struggling to find anywhere that sells in a smaller sheet more like the amount I would want. So, does anyone feel like linking me to a site where they know sells some really nice, not too expensive small sheets of the stuff?


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## Teal (Feb 8, 2012)

Michaels has some small thin sheets. They're a little pricey though.


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## Kitutal (Feb 9, 2012)

Yes, I tried that earlier but I searched for michaels leather on the internet and do you know how many millions of things came up? I know, I'm silly, but what can you do.


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## Inashne117 (Feb 9, 2012)

Michael's is probably not an option for you since you're in England and Michael's is a N. American company. But any general arts and crafts store should carry faux leather.


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## Kitutal (Feb 10, 2012)

our art shop doesn't. then again, it is the art shop of the university architectural department. I'll have to have a look around the rest of the city, see what I can find amongst all the take-aways and clothes shops.


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## Sar (Feb 10, 2012)

TealMoon said:


> What kind of glue? I think I'll be using the leather method as well.


Shoe Goo, Copydex, Hot Glue and E6000 are good choices of glue as they are also washable.



Kitutal said:


> OK, one last question before I leave you all in peace. What about paw pads, the only tutorial I have found recently with much information says simply non-fraying fabric, and i'm not too sure what that is, or where to buy it from. I can't seem to find it on the list of online shops given in the stickied threads. Anyone know where I should go, and what I should use?



A Non-Fraying Fabric is a fabric in which the edges do not wear away from rubbing and become tattered.
(Frayed Material, note the edges are tattered)

*Non Fraying Fabrics include (but not limited to):*

Felt 
Fleece 
Leather 
Latex 
Silicone 
  They can be purchased from several places and sites including Abakhan, FabricUK and FabricLand (which convinently has a store in portsmouth, according to yell).  
These places are UK specific and at a decent price.

Hope this helps! =D

PS. If you want to be extra sure that the material doesent fray, there are liquids that exist to keep fabrics from fraying.


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## Kitutal (Feb 13, 2012)

Oh, there's one in cascades, should have thought of that. I'll look there tomorrow, or online if that doesn't work, thanks for all that. 
And for everything else too. The fur I ordered arrived this morning, time to start drawing and cutting, I think.


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## Kitutal (Feb 14, 2012)

Still having trouble here, firstly, my fur seems to be molting, bits dropping out all over the place, especially around the edges where I cut it.

More importantly, though, how do I sew the two halves of my paws together now, if I do it back to back, making them inside-out, all the overhanging fur around the edges will end up trapped inside and look terrible, if I do it face to face, though, I have to sew through the fur, pinning it down with the thread as I go. Surely there is some simple, obvious thing I have missed here, right?


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## Keeroh (Feb 14, 2012)

Kitutal said:


> Still having trouble here, firstly, my fur seems to be molting, bits dropping out all over the place, especially around the edges where I cut it.
> 
> More importantly, though, how do I sew the two halves of my paws together now, if I do it back to back, making them inside-out, all the overhanging fur around the edges will end up trapped inside and look terrible, if I do it face to face, though, I have to sew through the fur, pinning it down with the thread as I go. Surely there is some simple, obvious thing I have missed here, right?



If the inside looks wonky, that's not a big deal. Nobody will see it. You can always do a thin fabric lining to cover the inside, but at the end of the day that's hidden from view so it's rather moot.


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## Kitutal (Feb 14, 2012)

Hmm? It's not the insides I'm worried about, it's the long fluffy fur, either the fur will get trapped inside as I sew, or the thread will go over the fur in an awkward way, I'm looking for a third alternative

OK, forget that, clearly I have to do it inside out, no way I can get the seams right otherwise. But, if I do that, the edges of the fur get caught inside, which means I get these odd lines around the edges where there is less fur and the seams are clearly visible. Anyone know a way around this, or should I just go for it?


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## Inashne117 (Feb 14, 2012)

If you cut out the fur properly (with a box cutter) then the fur should be easily brushed over the seams. Once you've sewn it up inside out, flip it around and then take a comb or brush and start brushing/combing the seams. That will get the fur out.


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## Kitutal (Feb 14, 2012)

So, I can just sort of pull the fur back out from inside the seams, it'll not get trapped in there by the thread? Though, I am a little worried about brushing it too firmly, given how much mess it's made over the floor already, don't want whole patches of the stuff coming out.

I cut it with scissors, is that bad?


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## Inashne117 (Feb 14, 2012)

It's perfectly normal for fur to come out along where you cut. It's also normal to have a bit of fur come out while brushing. Now, if you're having entire chunks fall out, then you have a problem.

As far as cutting with scissors goes, it's not bad but it depends how you stitch it up and as long as you didn't cut against the grain. The seams will show if you do a blanket stitch like I did.


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## Kitutal (Feb 14, 2012)

Ah, that could be a problem, curved shape so it goes against the grain in some places and not others.
I don't know the name of the stitches, what's the one where the thread folds in half so two lines go back from the needle, then you double back on yourself and go up through the loop of the last stitch?


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## Inashne117 (Feb 14, 2012)

This is a blanket stitch:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nJht13Bcw-U

You might want to redo the cuts for the hands before you stitch it up and are unsatisfied with the final product. It's going to take you at least a few hours per hand; double the time if you do a double stitch.


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## Kitutal (Feb 15, 2012)

Maybe I should have done that, though it looks rather complicated to follow, it does look like it takes up less space along the edge. Still, one paw done now, only four hours and that with the thread getting tangled up a lot. Oddly the wrist part came out a slightly odd shape and there is less room for modifying it there than I thought, lessons for next time, I suppose. One more to go, then the pads and that should be enough for a first effort.
It actually fits too.


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